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Xinjiang

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song of the open road

Saturday, June 17th, 2006

Our reliably indecipherable Chinese road map showed this backroad as a twisty, squiggly line. For once the map reflected the reality, with the road itself a thin scrawl in the dirt, a scar in a mountainside, stitched here and there by streams. After the desert, where we covered 120km a day propelled by tailwinds along pristine asphalt roads, this was a major change of pace. But well worth it to bike on exactly the sort of Abbey-approved trail we had come to China seeking.

May your trails be crooked, winding, lonesome, dangerous, leading to the most amazing view. – Ed Abbey

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wind, sand and stars

Saturday, May 27th, 2006

On a bike trip, you are exposed to the world around you in a way and to a degree that few other modes of transportation afford. That kind of raw vulnerability has its drawbacks — like choking on the fumes of transport trucks that roar past, or feeling every teensy bump in the road translate itself into a saddle sore. But in the end the perks take the prize: the freedom to explore a landscape at your own pace, under your own power, and the exhilaration of traveling with all you need strapped to your wheels. This is nomadism at its best, each day yielding some new acquaintance or adventure, insight or dream, vast horizon or gnarl in the road.

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over the hills and far away

Thursday, May 11th, 2006

I’m a fan of traveling light, but it’s a stretch to say we’re doing that on this long-distance bike trip. Lugging over 80 pounds of gear each from Canada to China is an adventure in itself, and after three different flights, countless luggage surcharges, and three separate midnight taxi rides, with bike boxes falling out of car trunks and us totally confused as to our intended destination, it was a miracle when Ben, Mel, myself and the bikes finally landed in Urumqi, Xinjiang. Through it all I never quite believed the bike trip was really happening. Only when our bikes were assembled, when we were out on the street with our route memorized, when we took that long-dreamed of first pedal stroke did it hit me: this was very real, and this was going to hurt.

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